AIR CONDITIONING FOR #VANLIFE | 12/24V DC POWER | DIY TUTORIAL
AIR CONDITIONING FOR #VANLIFE | 12/24V DC POWER | DIY TUTORIAL
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This Zero Breeze Mark II unit is pretty much the best option that we’ve found for DC powered air conditioning for a van. This means that you can run it straight off your power supply, without having to turn on your inverter or plug into shore power.
To purchase a Zero Breeze Mark II unit, email Shaiden at trickedoutvans@gmail.com.
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Videographer: Harrison Hodson (@HarryHods on IG)
Additional Footage Credit: Danny McGee (@McGee on IG)
Ha- Drop the word ‘Basically" . But nice review- thanks.
Where do I buy this
Great product. Did I overlook the unconditioned air supply port thru the box the unit is installed in?
where can order? How is the pricing?
It was a poor decision to install the ducting right on the metal body panel. This panel will absorb energy radiated from the sun, heat up, and heat your cool air moving through the duct. It would be better to install the entire unit and ducting all within the insulation of the van.
Additionally, the intake is on the floor of the van, where the air is coolest. It would have been better to install the unit up high so the hottest air in the van can hit the evaporator. And the ducting you installed would be shorter, increasing airflow.
Well I do it spending less than $275….$129.99 700 watt generator from harbor freight and a $134 air conditioner from Walmart. The air conditioner is 5000btu, 450 watts and draws approximately 4amps. How much did you say that 12vdc air conditioner cost?
Hey I’m a trucker. I think this will be perfect for me. I have a 3000 watt pure sine inverter hooked to battery bank of truck with 4/0 copper cables. Fuse 200amp on battery side and 200 amp(anl) on inverter side. Do you sell basic package( no battery). My truck has an opti idle system, to where if it senses low voltage it kicks the truck on to prevent low battery voltage, so I think this will definitely help me during hot summer nights in Texas when I don’t want to idle the truck all the time for a/c. What do you think? Thanks
Why not put it over a small water tank and collect the condensation for your sink
What’s the advantages or difference between this AC unit compared to having a mini split set up ?
I’d be willing to bet….. it would work a lot better if you didn’t runnit thru all that ducting.
Also bet this thing wouldn’t stand a chance in Arizona this time of year.
Please provide us the link to purchase the AC unit
I think I would have installed different
flex is your worst enemy for efficient air movement.. flex creates so much resistance for normal air handlers nevermind a micro Air Conditioner… to make matters worse you aren’t even running the full size diameter of the outlet and choked it down to 3".
Installing some solid duct.. even PVC pipe will reduce the static pressure and allow the tiny fan to more fully output its rated cfm.
I want to watch you change your tail light
Do you have your own business? I like your work. Would love to buy my own van sometime soon and have you construct it
I really love the way you did this, I have a ZB, it works fantastic as a personal cooler, the bad complaints are all people who tried to cool a large space, it cannot handle that.
ADVICE: Use a drip pan with the Zero Breeze. Water does leak from the unit with movement. I use a plastic lid from a storage bin – works great.
can you say sponsored video zero breeze sucks
Poor design power eater, you’re duct runs need to be shorter and duct reducers as they all create friction thus more performance reduction.
Wouldn’t it be more beneficial to have the intake taking from the hottest air in the van so at the top, then outputting the cool air and then have one pip running outside for the “exhaust”
8:08 how great?
The air intake is too close to the hot air exhaust, rather inefficient…
where did you buy it and how much did it cost you? or… did you get it for free?
Cut the top off it and fill it with ice
You’d be better off
Like others said, this device is a 1K personal a/c. It will not get close to cooling your entire van, even if its website claims it will. I have a 144" MB Sprinter High Roof and it is only useful if you’re standing in front of it, would not recommend or buy again.
Dang those are expensive! Mine isn’t nicely hidden, 5k btu window unit, and it was a fraction of the price. BUT it keeps me cool and at times too cool. The Zero Breeze is sleek and probably quieter, but I can’t see spending that much on a unit you will only use 4 months out of the year. Yeah, I’m cheap AF! LOL. Good luck with the business side, hope it works out for you! 🙏🏽✌🏽💖
COLD AIR SINKS..PUTTING THE UNIT UP HIGH TO START WITH WOULD COOL THE SPACE DOWN MORE EFFICIENTLY AND YOU’D NEED ALMOST NO DUCT HOSE. GOOD VIDEO THANKS FOR SHARING.
Need a big battery bank. My Hi-Lo camping trailer has just a single 12 VDC battery ~50 A-hr capacity, so the compressor could only run for 2 hours. I haven’t mounted a roof AC, though wired for it (120 VAC outside connector) since few state park sites in CA have electrical hookup, and those that do cost $55/night w/ 1 yr waiting list. I’m thinking of a 120 VAC portable AC (like restaurants use) when needed, but usually camp only in areas which get cool at night.
Your car AC is 10000 BTU, large vans with rear AC are in the 50000 BTU range; just for comparison.
Genius! Saw your build on Jarrod Tocci’s channel.
Nice installation job but it’s not going to cool that van.
Mine only cools what is directly in front of it and I have to use the extension hose to concentrate the airflow as well. It uses about 245 watts per hour on low. For me, it is better than nothing.
Do you sell vans and how much
👍
very nice
Mine freezes me out of my Nissan NV 200. We love it. Also. In our small van, we use “sleep mode“, and so the air conditioner only uses about 140 watts!! Awesome. Of course if you’re trying to cool down a bigger space, sleep mode won’t be sufficient. I am in Central Florida. We use it when sleeping at night. It’s awesome. I wouldn’t waste my time trying it during the daytime, I’ve got better things to do, getting outside and doing stuff. I don’t wanna be crammed up in my van during the day
editing: music bed shouldnt be louder than voices.
You keep saying that you can run it off of 12V. That’s not exactly true. You would need a 12V to 24V converter that is about 95% efficient. A decent 120V inverter would have about 90% efficiency. 24V should be the recommended voltage for this unit to maximize efficiency.
The zero breeze definitely is not 4 to 5 hour run time on full blast. Its 1 hour max.
How can it possibly "suck heat out of the van" if both the intake and exhaust are outside the van?
*Great with keeping my 1st floor **Fastly.Cool** . Had a little struggle getting it to sit properly in my small window but once I got it situated it works perfectly.*
Keep an eye on the duct tape, it tends to dry out in HVAC applications, I would consider swapping it for foil tape
Can you make a video about how you made that bed that raises and lowers from the ceiling in your collaboration video ? And maybe explain how you did the whole van ?
What a bonehead.
Well ‘basically’ that intrigues me in every way except the cost
My recent successful test of my ZeroBreeze
https://youtu.be/W0ssYw-aEmg
What DC To DC power converter did you use and what was the Amp rating ?
I would never put vents near the bottom, beware of exhaust fumes near by. Put near the top far away from exhaust fumes of your van and where other cars may emit fumes.
Just a quick question, does the zero breeze make the humidity levels go up?
Horrible idea. Air flow is probable reduced by half if not more. Turbulence within those flex pipes slows the air down. The length and each bend slows it more. If you want to duct it, use solid pipes and limit the number of bents. Look at building codes for clothes dryer vents as an example.